Can Beauty Brands Abandon Aging?
"Aging has a wonderful beauty, and we should have respect for that." — Eartha Kitt
I was glued to Youtube the day I saw Jenna Lyons and Linda Evangelista speak about getting older. These two iconic women, as part of the Shiseido “Potential Has No Age” summit, spoke honestly about the noise and pressure we face to not age, and that happiness and self-confidence are truly the pillars of beauty. (Although Linda does admit, when asked when she felt the most beautiful, that she now knows her answer is “wrong” because it was a time in her 20s).
It's incredibly touching to witness the duo hold hands as Linda discusses revealing her mastectomy scars to Jenna at a photoshoot — and then, together, emphasize the importance of being empowered by other women. That the smallest compliment goes so far. That our words matter.
When 62-year-old Agnes Landau, Sheisedo’s CMO, spoke to her role for the brand, she conveyed exactly what we want to hear — that we deserve to be seen and heard regardless of age. Landau was proud to reveal her age, and noted that formerly taboo topics (menopause and aging among them) are at the forefront of product development and narratives of the storied brand.
And yet…
A nicely retouched Anne Hathaway is featured in a recent Shiseido ad touting technology that “improves sagging, deep wrinkles and dark spots…to reawaken the skin’s revitalizing power for a youthful look…to boost multiple age-defying effects by giving you a lifting, firming, and brightening look to your skin promoting radiant and resilient skin… to resolve multiple signs of aging.”
The name of this confidence builder? Vital Perfection. Pause for irony.
Shiseido is not alone in this impasse. The $646 billion global beauty and personal care market requires commercial viability for growth, and fear of aging (more than sex, I would venture) sells. Shiseido’s tagline “Modern Tradition. Thoughtful Technology. Timeless Beauty.” feels like an extension of the summit and speaks to us intellectually, but beauty is emotional. And the brand portfolio — littered with “anti aging” rhetoric — speaks to our heart. Allure magazine may have been the first to dispense the use of “anti-aging” in 2017 (coincidentally when I shifted my fashion and beauty focus through the lens of aging), but since that time more adjectives have surfaced. New words. Same meaning.
But there are unicorns among the (luxury) masses. Brands that center on skin quality and skin health. Brands that are transparent about the fact that skincare cannot alter your skin; yes, your derm is awaiting your call for that. Leading this pack is
who has said, ““That stuff is not going to make you look younger or be younger. And why would you want to be younger anyway?”Behold Bobbi’s “I am Me” campaign, which encourages women to focus on “what you like about yourself and embracing what makes you unique.” With products that have universally flattering shades and buildable pigment to play up features we love most, the brand fosters freedom from “impossible standards and a kinder shift in the narrative for how we speak to ourselves.”
To further seed the concept, and bring more expansive conversations to life, the “I am Me” series has kicked off the first episode with 90-year old legend Gloria Steinem.
“‘I Am Me’ is a constant reminder to myself and for others to own who you are and be proud of it. It’s about being comfortable in your skin and loving what makes you special and unique. Embrace every freckle, every fine line, and every scar… wear it all proudly and know that it makes you, you. — Bobbi Brown
Jones Road proves that not kowtowing to “anti-aging” can be both a brilliant marketing strategy and a lucrative business, with a portfolio of effective products for women who don’t begrudge aging.
Sarah Creal Beauty, which I reported on for The Quality Edit, is following Bobbi Brown’s lead with a line that addresses unmet needs for women over 40 with nary any shaming of aging in sight. The industry veteran has also ensured we are represented in the campaign. Look, Muffy, a brand for us!
But the question remains. Can a skincare brand abandon aging and remain profitable despite the enormous draw of the $73+ billion “anti-aging” category?
is ever the brilliant mouthpiece on this — and I concur that we don’t need a new vocabulary, we need a paradigm shift. Ageism remains as one of the last socially accepted prejudices; women are not just fighting themselves in the mirror but society as a whole.Enter,
.As Pam’s new skincare brand Sonsie — coined “mindful minimal skincare” — has recently launched, I look forward to seeing how the celeb, as notorious for embracing aging and no makeup as running on the beach in a red swimsuit, translates to sales. And what age group she attracts with this minimalist brand.
I am cheering for her success.
As an audience of aging — no matter how old you are — readers, I look forward to hearing your thoughts in the comments. xx
My answer: Can jewelry brands abandon jewelry?