The Economics of Insecurity.

In a world captivated by fleeting aesthetics, the push to be thin is as absurd as the pursuit of eternal youth. I write about the latter (for the many new readers here, check out this, this, this and this) in my mission to change the narrative of aging, but both obsessions are fueled by a similar societal construct that prizes the superficial over the substantive. Despite being incredibly dynamic women, we are often reduced to mere appearances. This relentless chase for ideals not only trivializes our individuality — not to mention the character we’ve built through the decades — but perpetuates a cycle of dissatisfaction as the finish line keeps moving. It’s always just out of reach.

Which is great for the $650 billion global beauty industry.

PAYING FOR PERFECTION

The recent Air Mail Look piece Who’s Afraid of #Skinnytok? highlights the issue perfectly. Much like the quest for eternal youth, the drive to be slender — particularly in our GLP-1 prevalent culture — is presented as a pursuit of health. We spiral about protein, which at press time has 30 million #protein posts, while quotes like “Being skinny is the outfit” gain traction online. And body positivity? Everyone from Psychology Today to Lizzo have agreed “a growing focus on self-improvement and fixing perceived flaws overshadows body positivity.”

But the message, while not exactly new, is growing louder. And narrowing the definition of ideal beauty that spans generations, creating a lucrative market for products aimed at addressing health issues caused by malnourishment. Hello, hair loss supplements, regrowth serums, collagen and nutrient-enriched skincare.

Before purchasing another product for self-improvement, it’s worth contemplating —Is the root of the issue stemming from an industry manufactured insecurity?

credit: Pinterest

RECESSION BEAUTY

While the Lipstick Index — the term Leonard Lauder coined in 2001 to describe the trend of consumers purchasing more "affordable luxury" items such as lipstick during economic downturns — would traditionally be in effect given our growing financial concerns, beauty purchases are being approached differently. According to Vogue Business, “’Recession indicators are playing out in everyday beauty choices and cutbacks online, where hashtags like #RecessionCore are trending.” We are seeing unlikely shifts including DIY (box hair color sales are on the rise), going months without beauty appointments and stretching product replenishment. Conde Nast is featuring low maintenance hair color ideas — “Recession indicator blonde” has garnered 11.9 million views on TT and chic Vogue coverage — and other ways to circumvent expensive upkeep. And the dupe economy is playing a role in how we perceive and participate in beauty.

So, we can change.

The simultaneous rise of beauty burnout (as highlighted in Vogue Business by Jessica DeFino) and growing disconnection thanks to flawless AI models might lead us toward what Ellie Bamford (North America chief strategy officer at VML) calls “achievable aspiration.”

While we are surrounded by the catalysts for meaningful change, it requires us to do more than shift our purchasing habits; we need to reassess our values and priorities. There’s no better opportunity to reimagine beauty, not as a pursuit of perfection but as a genuine appreciation of individuality. And aging.

Yael Wellisch, The Brown Daily Herald

DE-COMMODIFICATION

While we buy into beauty brands so often for products or claims, the true cost is more considerable. What lines our shelves embodies our emotions and reflects our identity, costing the US economy over $800 billion annually due to dissatisfaction and discrimination. Instead of relying on products for self-worth and physical perfection, what if we could step back and appreciate our authentic beauty. This shift would allow beauty to bring joy, freedom of expression, and comfort without promoting unrealistic standards. We have the power to reshape the beauty industry's societal context, valuing ourselves and participating on our terms.

CHECKS AND BALANCES

Where does this leave us having been shaped by beauty our whole lives? I want to believe it liberates us from unattainable ideals and grants us the grace to explore a domain rich in innovation, creativity and inspiration. Participating in beauty for the experience, not the result. I reached out to some industry insiders for their perspective:

Iris&Romeo Founder, Michele Gough told me, “For too long, the beauty industry has sidelined older women, treating aging like a flaw to correct instead of a powerful stage of life to celebrate. At Iris&Romeo, we’re redefining what beauty means for the modern older woman, one who is confident, dynamic, and done apologizing for taking up space. Real beauty comes from self-possession, not perfection. When we stop selling insecurity and start honoring individuality, especially in age, we create space for a more honest and inclusive vision of beauty.”

Credo Beauty Founder, Annie Jackson, added “A surprising aspect of our journey growing Credo has been the inspiration our clients get from the inspiring founder origin stories. It’s not surprising since beauty should provoke an emotional response if it taps into something people believe in and feel good about. I think one good thing that has come from social media is the promotion that authenticity and realness reign, and embracing people just being people and talking about products that enhance their natural beauty and make them feel good. That is what beauty should be.”

Pro-age activist and stylist, Roz Kaur, agreed: “While the beauty industry wants us to stay insecure to keeps us buying, I’ve learned that beauty isn’t about fixing myself but about honoring myself. Yes, I get my Botox here and there. But I do it because I want to, not because I need to. At 58, I’ve stopped trying to ‘anti-age’ and started celebrating what’s already here. The rituals I keep now are for joy, not for erasing time."

A PRICELESS PHILOSOPHY + FINAL NOTES

I am learning about — and loving — the Japanese philosophy of Wabi-sabi, which finds beauty in impermanence and imperfection. Rooted in Buddhism, it suggests focusing on well-being and experience instead of striving for a youthful appearance. For aging specifically, it encourages acceptance of natural changes over time, such as wrinkles and gray hair, viewing them not as imperfections but as aspects of a life journey. This feels like an aesthetic principal we can all invest in.

If you need help taking stock in what beauty really is — versus what we have been conditioned to believe — check out the new publication “Notes on Beauty” that “explores beauty in a philosophical sense, engaging with ideas of identity, self-representation, and radical transformation.” The inaugural issue reveals beauty as an expression of individuality and addressing how to unlearn the myths we are told.