What’s Old is New.
“Watch out for fashion, because it’s fashionable…here today, gone tomorrow. Find something that’s going to last you until you’re my age” — Lauren Hutton
After a fun filled reflection into summers' past and present, a then vs. now of Fall favorites felt fitting. But with so much style resurgence — from boho to prep — have we really ventured that far from the looks of our youth? As a writer striving to change the narrative of aging, I am thrilled to say many of our favorites in fashion and beauty have not changed significantly, but have become better over time. Much like each of us. Time does not diminish our shine. And despite my mission, I can’t help but stop on occasion to appreciate what Parisian designer Vanessa Bruno once said, “Focusing on age is boring. It’s much more interesting to think about style.”
So, let’s do just that.
Before we get to style revivals, you need to sit down for this news. Our grief from the gone but not forgotten Barneys New York will be lifted when Hourglass Cosmetics celebrates its twentieth anniversary — which began in the iconic retailer — with a Barneys popup.
From September 5th through October 11th, you can revel in the past and shop the best of the present at 14 Prince Street. Beyond beauty, brands from the heyday (like Marc Jacobs and Thom Browne) will be available alongside more recent launches (Khaite). In the interim, watch the greats — from Simon Doonan to Bethann Hardison — reminisce about the legendary store.
Credit: Clinique
Clinique Black Honey — the “gooey gloss sold in little glass pots” — launched in 1971 as the antithesis of the era’s highly glamorous makeup. The versatile shade, flattering on all skin tones, earned a facelift into the Almost Lipstick line in 1989; the brand boasts one tube sold every three minutes. But the resurgence came in 2021 as Tiktok’s #cliniqueblackhoney and #blackhoney garnered 242 million views — and product perpetually sold out.
Today, there’s a Black Honey collection that has expanded the hero shade to lip + cheek oil as well as mascara.
Credit: J.Crew Archives
In the late 80’s there were as many Barn Jackets on Chapel Hill’s campus (where I studied Journalism) as there were fake IDs. Worn habitually with Duck shorts and Keds, it was my wardrobe staple.
While many of us have reached for our old school Barn Jackets over the decades and Carhartt’s WIP version has simultaneously appeared on off-duty models, the style’s frequent appearance on 2024 runways — Prada, Bottega Veneta, Fendi, and Maison Margiela — cemented its return. Everyone from The Row and Burberry to Mango and Everlane has launched a version this season.
If you want to stay with original, J. Crew offers a Men’s Limited-edition 1983 heritage Barn Jacket™ as well as variations for women including cropped, plaid, denim and nylon.
Credit: Vogue.com
Regardless of the origin of the Boho revival, Chemena Kamali’s debut as Chloé’s new creative director — her exalted Fall 2024 runway show seen around the world, with OG Sienna Miller sitting front row — sealed the deal. But while many have never left the style behind, forever embodying the pre-Row Olson twins and leaning into Dakota Johnson’s look, the new bohemian has grown up along with us. For which I, as a 55-year-old minimalist am grateful; I don’t want to feel like I am wearing a costume.
According to Vogue Business, when asked about the aesthetic’s resurgence ahead of her Paris debut, Kamali said, “I think there’s this longing for undone-ness and freedom and softness and movement, and when you look at history, it’s rooted in the ’70s, when people wanted to free themselves from conventions and traditional lifestyles and sexuality.”
Believing boho became oversaturated and too commercial but that enough time has passed for brands to play with the aesthetic once more she told Vogue, “It’s the moment for it again. People want to be themselves, live the way they live — defining your life for yourself.”
Defining life for yourself. That is what style — and aging — is all about.
Credit: Thecut.com
Thirty years ago, Chanel Vamp made its debut on the Paris runway — and hands around the world went up for the hue. I was one of them. The blackberry shade matched my Doc Martens and my mood; longing to discover myself as I was currently an advertising exec by day, grunge concert attendee at night. Vamp was rumored to be the fifth best-selling polish in the world, and retailers had to ration bottles as they frequently sold out. Even when Newsweek reported the color was “finally out of style” in 1996.
Today, having been revamped to include a shimmery finish, a new moniker (Rouge Noir) and expanded into makeup (that launched in 2015), it lives on.
And Vogue, once again, recommends the shade for Fall.
Credit: JCrew.com
Every Fall, it seems “Prep” is making a comeback. For Lisa Birnbach, author of the 1980 runaway hit The Preppy Handbook, it never left — but she acknowledges its major evolution. Much like our own style through the decades. Thankfully. I may love popping a collar of my oft-worn white button downs, but layered Izods, Bermuda bags and add-a-bead necklaces had their era. As did the 2000’s version of prep that was riddled with logos and shocking bright colors.
Today, preppy is clean, classic pieces — among them, Blazers, lady jackets, loafers and Mary Janes. Prep “channels a polished, collegiate appearance focusing on traditional patterns, such as plaid and stripes, and a blend of casual and formal elements” which looks good at every age.
You can fangirl J. Crew’s Creative Director (who, let’s admit, we’re already swooning over on IG) on the topic of preppy with this podcast.
While I love New York Times Fashion Director/Chief Fashion Critic Vanessa Friedman, I disagree with her sentiment that “If you wore it the first time it was a trend, you may want to avoid it the second time” — then again, she agrees that when you are older and wiser, and “know who [you] are and are comfortable telegraphing that to the world,” it’s all about wearing what makes you feel good. “Which is, really, the ultimate grown-up way to dress.”
Happy Fall. xx
Loved and nodded along through this whole essay! (And even this Brit is feeling the Barneys nostalgia - thank you so much for sharing that YouTube clip, I love the memory about it being like catching "one of Santa's helpers" dressing the windows!) And Vamp forever!! Happy (Rouge Noir) Fall to you!! XO
“Defining life for yourself. That is what style — and aging — is all about.” So much yes to this and omg if I had a dime for every pot of black honey I went through…
A most delicious read!