Fashion. Forward.

“[Aging’s] a fighting battle, but I refuse to think of it as a losing battle. I’m a positive thinker. I don’t believe in failure.” — Polly Mellen

Sometimes the best things in life are, in fact, old. The outpouring of love and phenomenal stories this week as we lost fashion legend Polly Mellen (at age 100) is a grand example of why celebration of aging is not only important, but why the here and now — sparkly trends, if you will— are not the only things worthy of devotion. If you have not read the brilliant NYT piece, please do (the paywall is gifted here); another incredible tribute not to be missed is from Lisa Eisner. And the avalanche of affection for what Polly meant to the world, and the world of fashion, is not an isolated event. The passing of Iris Apfel earlier this year heralded a similar response.

I could not be more delighted to dedicate so much of my work — and my words — to the merits of getting older and those paving the way for us with enthusiasm and grace. With that, I want to share a recent piece I wrote for THE BOARD, the collective of experts that partner with brands to create an impact, following the release of The Business of Fashion’s “State of Fashion 2025” report. I hope you find it meaningful as it showcases that all this talk of aging might just be changing our culture — and, at minimum, given our sheer volume we are finally being seen.

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CHANGING THE NARRATIVE OF AGING IS THE BEST WAY TO MOVE BRANDS — AND CULTURE — FORWARD

Aging: One of the Last Socially Accepted Prejudices

Words are wands. They hold significant power. Not just for me, an esteemed writer and seasoned brand builder, but for anyone in business — founders, leaders, brand stewards — who wants to stand out and build connections, a loyal fanbase. While we have seen significant shifts in beauty and fashion, due to technology, styles of self-expression and increased consumption, the lexicon surrounding the industries — which are mired in ageism — has not changed. And there’s no better time than the present.

Since its first appearance in 1917, the term “anti-aging” grew to become an accepted descriptor in beauty as a rallying cry for brands. Ingredients, identities, campaigns became wallpaper in the fight against aging. Neither the 2008 Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) ban of the term “anti-aging” to avoid misleading consumers, nor the denouncement of the phrase in 2017 by beauty bible Allure led us to the about face we need. Only recently has a groundswell to embrace growing older, as the privilege it is, taken hold. Beauty brands for women over 40 are surfacing with great aplomb. Runways featuring mature, silver-haired models have emerged. The brands who showcase and connect authentically are reaping the rewards of the $15 trillion in purchasing power of women over 50, the “super consumers” from the healthiest, wealthiest and most active generation.

Joan Didion for Celine

But a new turn of phrase and representation is just the beginning.

The United States population is older than it’s ever been; by 2034, the number of seniors will outnumber children for the first time in history. With longer life expectancies and declining birth rates, the over 50 segment is growing faster than any other age group globally. Brands currently earmark 5-10% of marketing budgets for “The Silver Generation,” preferring to attract the younger consumer — and perpetuating the celebration of youth.

Fashion’s Fifty Shades of Gray

But brands are courting the wrong audience.

US consumers 55+ accounted for 72% of wealth this year, and this is slated to increase, while younger consumers report financial insecurities and expect lower spending in the coming year. The Business of Fashion’s “State of Fashion 2025” revealed this, along with the fact that those over 50 represent 38% of total spending globally in 2024 and will drive 48% of global spending growth next year. Given the population, disposable cash and interest in spending, brand allocation — as well as bias about those aging — needs reform.

While anti-aging rhetoric has been lucrative to date and shows no sign of slowing down as it draws from younger users each year, as evidenced by the tween spike in sales, aging consumers are seeking brands that mirror their wisdom and acceptance. As a brand, you can’t afford not to connect with — and market to — the older generation(s). Differentiation and an ageless design devoid of outdated cliches can drive growth to the 50% of women in their 50’s who are more style-conscious than when they were in their 20’s. As 70% of women feel invisible with age, brands have a genuine opportunity to redefine beauty and fashion for this sizeable audience.

As a member of THE BOARD — the uniquely vetted community of talent steeped in the worlds of fashion and beauty — I am grateful to be on the front lines steering brands and crafting identities that can change the narrative. I believe the fundamental issue is incertitude that the aging audience is not only valuable, but invaluable; that aging is not warfare, fear and flaws are not the only tactics to tout beauty brands, and fashion does not need to be solely rooted in youth. Ageism activist Asheton Applewhite said it best in her renowned TEDx talk: “The more clearly we see these forces at work, the easier it is to come up with alternative, more positive and more accurate narratives. Aging is not a problem to be fixed or a disease to be cured. It is a natural, powerful, lifelong process that unites us all.”